In which we ponder fashion

Historical fashion, that is. Lately it seems everywhere I look, fashion is casting an eye to the past. There was a stab at a Watteau train on "Project Runway" last week, steampunk corsets were featured in a catalog that popped in my mailbox--even Forever 21 is getting into the mix. I saw flirty little tulle skirts in the window at my local mall, a pleasantly trashy take on Degas. And I started thinking about the movies I've seen that feature incredibly delicious clothes--the brocade confections of Sofia Coppola's "Marie Antoinette", all of the alluring white lawn in any Jane Austen adaptation. And I think we've been robbed.

I know it must have been horrifically uncomfortable to wear most of those things. Well, perhaps not the Empire styles of Jane Austen's time. Most of those girls look as if they were wearing their nightgowns. And one isn't really surprised that this high-waisted, casual look was the result after the towering powdered headdresses and panniers of the late 18th century. But still. Historical clothing is unspeakably gorgeous, all those feathers and swathes of costly lace that were doubtless crafted by blind nuns. (For a peek at a true lace-aholic, check out the profile of Rita Lydig in Annette Tapert's The Power of Style. It takes rather a lot of nerve to wear 11th century altarcloths as tunics, don't you think?)

And I think men are missing out as well. Besides Darcy's obvious aloof charm, I think it's his wardrobe that attracts us. Flowing white shirts, preferably dampened by a dip in the pond, and skintight breeches are an arresting look. They can take a milquetoasty sort and make him irresistible, while an already handsome man becomes a threat to public safety. (More than one of us might end up wandering beneath the wheels of a passing carriage while admiring a tight thigh, I suspect.)

How much nicer we would all look if we went around in silks and velvets and ribbons rather than Juicy Couture tracksuits and gym shorts! I strongly suspect that loosening our standards in what we wear has resulted in loosening our standards of polite behavior. I'm not talking about morality--what you get up to with our without your girdle is entirely your own business. But I think it's entirely likely that when men no longer felt the need to go out without their hats and neatly-pressed handkerchiefs, they left something of their best manners behind too. And the same goes for us! There's an entire generation of young women who think that flip-flips are the same as shoes and that it is perfectly acceptable to flash their nethers as they exit a car because Britney and Lindsay do. (Ironically, women have only worn underwear for a very short period of history, but one must respect the Bennet girls for never showing off what they oughtn't. Even Lydia.)

I'm not naive. I know it would be monstrously uncomfortable and hideously expensive. I know the vast majority of us would have to make do with grotesquely shapeless garments of homespun because only the aristocracy could afford beautiful clothes. (And by law, they were the only ones permitted to wear them for many centuries.) I also know it would throw us back into gender roles that were too restrictive, and nobody wants that. But just imagine the sweeping whisper of a silken train behind you, the rustle of taffeta petticoats, the clip of tiny pearl-encrusted heels, and the shade from a parasol thick with fringe. Being held by a gentleman wearing black breeches and an inviting smile. Now, doesn't that sound nice for just a day or so? Share this

Comments

I don't know if you watched

I don't know if you watched House, MD, last night, which was partially set at a Medieval Fair. "13"'s dress was beautiful, but it buttoned in the back, so she must have been aristocracy, to have had a servant to button it for her.It is so true that people don't know how to dress appropriately anymore. I feel like an old fuddy-duddy on a Sunday, when I see people show up in T-shirts and shorts.Lynnette, I grew up in Bethlehem, PA, and went to Moravian College, so I have a very clear image of what you're describing!Lynn

My antidote is shawls and

My antidote is shawls and scarves. I have a hard time wearing the flowing skirts that I like at work because they get caught in the office chairs' wheels, but at least I wrap myself in one of my many scarves in order to get my fix!

Love this post and I am

Love this post and I am hoping that someone will be able to help me. Like many of us lovers of historical fiction, I've longed to see and feel myself in clothes from different time periods. Medieval, Victorian, Regency, Edwardian, you get the idea. I want to see how it would feel, and then also take pictures. Not Halloween costumes but authentic clothes. But I'm not sure how to find these clothes for trying on purposes. Does anyone have any ideas? And I don't have any contacts in the theater world, or costume design, etc. I am also not ready to join the SCA, they are a bit too hardcore for me. Any tips would be appreciated.Thanks.

Oooh, where did you see

Oooh, where did you see steampunk corsets, Deanna? (I'm incorporating steampunk in my wedding, and just must know.)

I think this is why so many

I think this is why so many women participate in Renaissance Faires and Civil War reenactments. So they can dress in beautiful, historic costumes.Oh, and "Flannel pants" is just another word for "pajamas" and neither should be worn in public. Ever.

Your post reminded me of why

Your post reminded me of why some of us choose to belong to such social subcultures as "goth" or "steampunk". It gives us a chance to dress up in elaborate historical influenced clothing. For some there really is a sense of "better manners" at the most elaborate gatherings. I won't say everyone in those subcultures engage in a loftier sense of decorum, but there are some of us who let the clothes lead to better behavior:)Rebecca

It's a pretty bad state of

It's a pretty bad state of affairs when stores have to post signs banning people from wearing 'flannel pants.' @@I've found that when wearing skirts and even just a hint of lipstick, folks, even women, are kinder, nicer, and give me better service. So it's a very cold day indeed if you catch me in jeans or slacks anymore!Laura

I think that is why I like

I think that is why I like wearing skirts when I can (which is a change, hated wearing skirts as a little kid, began revisiting it in high school and found I was into it). I work with small children, so it really is mostly jeans most days, because I could be on the floor when I am testing a baby. I recently bought a tea length skirt in white cotton (it looks like lawn, now that you mention it) and a pair of flower printed flats to wear with it (can't do heels when conducting a training for six hours). I felt entirely too pretty when I got to wear it. I would love wearing the stuff that the Bennet girls got to wear, but 5 foot zero girls that carry around the double Ds (not by choice, I would never pay for these stupid things) actually look really bad in that look. But I have the feeling that I would have looked great in the stuff they wear on The Tudors.From Crystal

Formal night on a

Formal night on a semi-traditional cruise ship. Great antidote.ElaineNorman, Oklahoma

The idea of appropriate

The idea of appropriate attire for different situations is being lost, and I find that sad. Every year we take our school to a live theater performance for an exposure to the arts (and practice in proper public behavior.) Each year we must be more precise in our instructions, as now there are parents who see nothing wrong in sending their 11 year old wearing a tee shirt and pajama pants for a trip to a theater in our state capital. I miss the little plaid skirt, pretty sweater and patent shoes we saw a half-generation ago! Think how much girls are missing if their idea of dress-up is flannel pants. Side note-loved Emilio's gown on PR, am getting really tired of Emilio.

I think even the wardrobes of

I think even the wardrobes of the lesser sorts might teach the modern world a thing or two about comfort, not to mention modesty and the allure of the unseen.My children have worn 18th and 19th century dress at Old Salem in NC, and they like it. A linen shift wicks away perspiration in our southern humidity. Fully dressed with a gathered linen skirt, a bodice and an apron, a lady could maintain her dignity and remain reasonably cool. The Moravian women of Salem also wore a hauba--a linen cap tied under the chin which completely hid the hair. Sounds pleasant to me on those hot afternoons when even short hair is too heavy. The ribbons used to tie the hauba were color-coded according to age and marital status. No need for personal ads!Lynnette